MANUAL
ON-LINE
Copyright © 2015 A to Z Global Marketing Inc. All Rights Reserved. Battery Chem is a trademark of A to Z Global Marketing Inc.
Sulfation Removal Chemical
TM
Sulfation Removal Chemical
TM
THE RECONDITIONING PROCESS:
Lets assume that you know very little about batteries at this point. You have purchased 20 to 30 from a local service
station. These have been bought “as is.” You don’t know what you have. You don’t know if some have dead cells, dry cells,
shorted cells, are too old, possibly damaged, etc. These batteries will have to be tested. First of all, if the battery does not
read at least 12 volts to begin with there is a very good chance it has a dead cell if reading 10 or less volts. If you wish to
test further, do the following steps.
Step 1:
When testing batteries, first use the 12-volt test meter. Test each cell to assure conductivity, and no “dead” cells. Start by
removing all battery caps or lids. Lets assume that you are beginning this first test with a top post battery. Using a 12-volt
test meter, hold the one stationary prod on top of the positive post and put the other prod into the first cell. Don’t push the
prod way down and into the plates. It just needs to touch the liquid. If you get a 2-volt reading, proceed to the next cell,
putting one prod into the first cell and the other prod into the second cell. Always go from left to right. Start in this order:
positive post – first cell, first cell – second cell, second cell – third cell, third cell – fourth cell, fourth cell - fifth cell, fifth cell
– sixth cell. If you get a 2-volt reading on all cells, hold this battery aside for the next step. If any cell does not produce a
2-volt reading put it on the junk pile. It will not recondition as these particular cells are dead or on their way.
Step 2:
Next, use a low cost, 6/12 volt 10 amp fast battery charger. Hook it up to a battery that passed the 2-volt cell test. If the
meter hand moves quickly up to at least 1/3 to ½ the dial capacity, proceed to step 3. If you have a battery that gives you
a 2-volt reading on the first cell and nothing on the others, this usually means that you have a battery without enough
charge in it for this particular test. In this case, hook it up to your 6/12-volt charger for a few minutes. Leaving hooked up,
again take your 2-volt cell tester and test all cells again. If they now give you a 2-volt reading each, this battery will
probably recondition. If any cells should give a reading way past the 2-volt mark, put this battery in the junk pile. An
excessive reading usually indicates a shorted cell.
Step 3:
Take all batteries that have passed the prior tests add one tablespoon of the chemical to each cell and make sure that the
tops of all plates in each cell are covered over with liquid. If any appear low, add some distilled water. Do not add acid! The
use of hydrometer for adding water works well. NEVER USE TAP WATER IN A BATTERY. IT CAN SEVERELY
SHORTEN THE LIFE OF THE BATTERY.
Step 4:
Using a 6/8 amp multiple slow charger hook up batteries in a series. Use some charging cables for this purpose. The
making of charging cables is explained further down the page. To avoid confusion and any errors in hooking up a series of
batteries, it is a good idea to turn each battery in the same direction. You can also charge 6-volt batteries along with 12 volt
ones, just as long as the total volts hooked together don’t exceed the charger capacity rating.
· Charging cables can easily be made using scraps of good heavy gauge wire and some alligator type clamps. Electrical wire
scraps can be obtained from an electrical contractor or ask the foreman at any new building site. The alligator type clamps
can be bought from most auto supply parts stores. We recommend this type of charging cables over all the rest. They are
fast to hook up and hard to accidentally knock loose. The pin will work OK, but they get dull eventually and excess
hammering them into the battery post tops will sometimes result in cracking the plastic case around the post or even
damaging some internal parts of the battery.
· To hook up side post batteries, charging posts are needed. These are cone shaped lead plugs with a threaded bolt
imbedded in the lead. Screw these into the side posts. Then, simply snap on your charging cables as you would to a top
post battery.
Step 5:
Turn on your charger until the hand indicator reaches between 5 and 6 amps. Watch it closely for about 10 minutes and
don’t allow the hand to exceed past 6 amps. You could blow a fuse. During the next hour, check often. Most of the time the
hand will slowly continue to fall back to 5 amps for a while. Adjust to maintain 5 ½ amps. Special Notice: If at this point
you should observe that the indicator needle hand on your charger is nervous it usually means one of the following:
1. You forgot to add water to sufficiently cover the top of the plates in one battery. Turn off charger and correct this.
2. A shorted cell you failed to catch when testing. In this case one of the charging cable ends will get real hot. Turn off
charger and remove this battery. Replace with another.
3. Check all connections. There could be a loose clamp or perhaps you forgot to tighten up a charging post.
Step 6:
After 24 hours of slow charging, reduce the amperage so that the hand now reads between 4 and 5 amps. Look into the
cells of each battery. If the fluid level has fallen very low add some distilled water with your hydrometer. Charge for another
24 hours.
Step 7:
After the second 24-hour charging period, turn off your charger. Remove the charging cables and set these batteries aside
to cool for another 24-hour period. Now – hook another bunch of batteries you have tested and repeat steps 3 through 7.
VOLTAGE AND AMPERAGE TESTING:
After the 24-hour cooling period, your batteries are now ready to test for proper voltage and amperage ratings. Using a
voltage and amperage tester, test each battery as follows: Hook the red clamp to the positive post and the black clamp to
the negative post. Look at the voltage reading. It should read 12.4 volts or right at it. A fully charged battery in good
condition will read 12.4 volts. Lets say you only get a 10-volt reading. This means that one cell went bad during the
charging process. Put it in the junk pile. Since a six cell, 12 volt battery should produce at least 12 volts this simply means
each cell should produce 2 volts.
Lets say, a battery shows “cold crank amps – 300” and your test only produces a 275 amp reading. Don’t throw it away. It
simply means that this particular battery was very heavily sulfated to start with and that the reconditioning process did not
completely remove all of it. You can still sell this battery. Many customers need only a 275-amp battery. Most cars with a 4-
cylinder engine require a low amp battery. Reduce your price and sell it with no guarantee--and, don’t think that you can’t
sell these. Just tell the customer that you can guarantee this battery will start his car – but for how long you cannot
determine. Many times you will have a customer wanting a battery just good enough to start his car since he plans on
selling it right away. Also, it could improve after several days of charging and recharging on the car etc. Our golf cart
customers tell us the driving distance improves with each charging; it is the conditioner working. A battery that tests a little
low will improve with successive charging if you have our additive in it. The additive will help to dissolve more acid crystals
that have built up on the battery plates.
HOW TO CLEAN BATTERIES:
First, look into each cell and top off with additional water if needed. Then, put the caps back on tight. Using a wood rasp,
run it across the top of each post. This will remove any roughness and give a nice clean flat look. Then, using a good
battery post cleaner (one with metal blades), run it down and turn around each post several times to even out each post,
leaving a clean look. Don’t make the mistake of using a cheap wire battery post cleaner. Now, you are ready to wash each
battery. The best and most economical cleaner, and the only one you will need are kerosene. Also, purchase a good, round
wheel brush with a wooden or plastic handle and stiff 2 inch long nylon bristles. Pour a few inches of kerosene into a 1
gallon plastic bucket with a wide-open top. Dip the scrub brush into the kerosene and briskly scrub the top and sides of the
battery. Next, take a garden hose and attach an adjustable nozzle. Turn on the water and slowly open the nozzle until you
get a hard fast spray. Go over and around the top and sides of the battery. Tilt the battery and spray under it. The use of a
square, waist high wash pit using a small wooden turn table to place a single dirty battery upon makes the wash operation
easy and fast. You can make your own wash pit and turntable.
WIPE DRY PROCEDURE:
Next, your washed batteries will need to be dried off. First, get some newspapers. Lay these (several sheets thick) on a
table and then set each washed battery on top of these papers. Next, get some hand wash towels. Remove the battery lids
and wash them off in your wash pit. Take a couple of sheets of paper towels and wipe off the top of the battery. The fluid
on the top of the battery under the lids will be greasy and you don’t want this in your dry cloth towel. Throw away this
paper towel, take your dry cloth and proceed to wipe dry each battery side and around the terminal tops. Shake out the
battery lids, wipe dry and re-apply to battery. The battery will look like new. Lastly, wash out all cloth towels immediately
with water and hang them on a line to dry.
NUMBERING BATTERIES:
Your washed and dried batteries are now ready to number. Sets of small metal number dies are needed for this purpose.
These are not expensive and can usually be purchased from any hardware store. You can start your numbering system
beginning with #1 or #100 or whatever you choose. We stamp numbers on our batteries in two places. Place one on top of
the positive post and the other into the top of the plastic case near the positive post and next to the edge of the battery
case. Don’t hammer in hard, because you could crack the plastic. The reason for numbering each battery is so you can
issue each customer an individual guarantee with his/her battery. The battery number should be written on each sales
invoice and guarantee slip. Stamping the date of purchase on top of each battery is not necessary. Also, the customer
should bring to you his/her sales invoice and guarantee slip so that you can immediately see when it was purchased.
LABELING PROCEDURE:
A company label with the month of purchase punched out and the year should be applied to the top of each battery. Put
the labels on before the sale is made because this makes your reconditioned batteries look more professional. Place your
label over any guarantee that might already be on the battery. This prevents the customer from seeing the original age of
the battery and also from confusing him/her as to your guarantee.
FINAL TEST:
After labeling, again hook up your load tester and see what cold crank amps your reconditioned battery is now producing.
Write this in small letters on your company label for quick reference. You have now classified this battery and are ready to
place it on your “selling table.” No further testing will be necessary.
PAGE 2
PAGE 2
MANUAL
ON-LINE
Copyright © 2015 A to Z Global Marketing Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Battery Chem is a trademark of A to Z Global Marketing Inc.
Sulfation Removal Chemical
TM
PAGE 2
THE RECONDITIONING PROCESS:
Lets assume that you know very little about batteries at this
point. You have purchased 20 to 30 from a local service
station. These have been bought “as is.” You don’t know what
you have. You don’t know if some have dead cells, dry cells,
shorted cells, are too old, possibly damaged, etc. These
batteries will have to be tested. First of all, if the battery does
not read at least 12 volts to begin with there is a very good
chance it has a dead cell if reading 10 or less volts. If you wish
to test further, do the following steps.
Step 1:
When testing batteries, first use the 12-volt test meter. Test
each cell to assure conductivity, and no “dead” cells. Start by
removing all battery caps or lids. Lets assume that you are
beginning this first test with a top post battery. Using a 12-volt
test meter, hold the one stationary prod on top of the positive
post and put the other prod into the first cell. Don’t push the
prod way down and into the plates. It just needs to touch the
liquid. If you get a 2-volt reading, proceed to the next cell,
putting one prod into the first cell and the other prod into the
second cell. Always go from left to right. Start in this order:
positive post – first cell, first cell – second cell, second cell –
third cell, third cell – fourth cell, fourth cell - fifth cell, fifth cell
– sixth cell. If you get a 2-volt reading on all cells, hold this
battery aside for the next step. If any cell does not produce a
2-volt reading put it on the junk pile. It will not recondition as
these particular cells are dead or on their way.
Step 2:
Next, use a low cost, 6/12 volt 10 amp fast battery charger.
Hook it up to a battery that passed the 2-volt cell test. If the
meter hand moves quickly up to at least 1/3 to ½ the dial
capacity, proceed to step 3. If you have a battery that gives
you a 2-volt reading on the first cell and nothing on the others,
this usually means that you have a battery without enough
charge in it for this particular test. In this case, hook it up to
your 6/12-volt charger for a few minutes. Leaving hooked up,
again take your 2-volt cell tester and test all cells again. If they
now give you a 2-volt reading each, this battery will probably
recondition. If any cells should give a reading way past the 2-
volt mark, put this battery in the junk pile. An excessive
reading usually indicates a shorted cell.
Step 3:
Take all batteries that have passed the prior tests add one
tablespoon of the chemical to each cell and make sure that the
tops of all plates in each cell are covered over with liquid. If
any appear low, add some distilled water. Do not add acid! The
use of hydrometer for adding water works well. NEVER USE
TAP WATER IN A BATTERY. IT CAN SEVERELY
SHORTEN THE LIFE OF THE BATTERY.
Step 4:
Using a 6/8 amp multiple slow charger hook up batteries in a
series. Use some charging cables for this purpose. The making
of charging cables is explained further down the page. To avoid
confusion and any errors in hooking up a series of batteries, it
is a good idea to turn each battery in the same direction. You
can also charge 6-volt batteries along with 12 volt ones, just as
long as the total volts hooked together don’t exceed the
charger capacity rating.
· Charging cables can easily be made using scraps of good
heavy gauge wire and some alligator type clamps. Electrical
wire scraps can be obtained from an electrical contractor or ask
the foreman at any new building site. The alligator type clamps
can be bought from most auto supply parts stores. We
recommend this type of charging cables over all the rest. They
are fast to hook up and hard to accidentally knock loose. The
pin will work OK, but they get dull eventually and excess
hammering them into the battery post tops will sometimes
result in cracking the plastic case around the post or even
damaging some internal parts of the battery.
· To hook up side post batteries, charging posts are needed.
These are cone shaped lead plugs with a threaded bolt
imbedded in the lead. Screw these into the side posts. Then,
simply snap on your charging cables as you would to a top post
battery.
Step 5:
Turn on your charger until the hand indicator reaches between
5 and 6 amps. Watch it closely for about 10 minutes and don’t
allow the hand to exceed past 6 amps. You could blow a fuse.
During the next hour, check often. Most of the time the hand
will slowly continue to fall back to 5 amps for a while. Adjust to
maintain 5 ½ amps. Special Notice: If at this point you should
observe that the indicator needle hand on your charger is
nervous it usually means one of the following:
1. You forgot to add water to sufficiently cover the top of the
plates in one battery. Turn off charger and correct this.
2. A shorted cell you failed to catch when testing. In this case
one of the charging cable ends will get real hot. Turn off
charger and remove this battery. Replace with another.
3. Check all connections. There could be a loose clamp or
perhaps you forgot to tighten up a charging post.
Step 6:
After 24 hours of slow charging, reduce the amperage so that
the hand now reads between 4 and 5 amps. Look into the cells
of each battery. If the fluid level has fallen very low add some
distilled water with your hydrometer. Charge for another 24
hours.
Step 7:
After the second 24-hour charging period, turn off your
charger. Remove the charging cables and set these batteries
aside to cool for another 24-hour period. Now – hook another
bunch of batteries you have tested and repeat steps 3 through
7.
VOLTAGE AND AMPERAGE TESTING:
After the 24-hour cooling period, your batteries are now ready
to test for proper voltage and amperage ratings. Using a
voltage and amperage tester, test each battery as follows:
Hook the red clamp to the positive post and the black clamp to
the negative post. Look at the voltage reading. It should read
12.4 volts or right at it. A fully charged battery in good
condition will read 12.4 volts. Lets say you only get a 10-volt
reading. This means that one cell went bad during the charging
process. Put it in the junk pile. Since a six cell, 12 volt battery
should produce at least 12 volts this simply means each cell
should produce 2 volts.
Lets say, a battery shows “cold crank amps – 300” and your
test only produces a 275 amp reading. Don’t throw it away. It
simply means that this particular battery was very heavily
sulfated to start with and that the reconditioning process did
not completely remove all of it. You can still sell this battery.
Many customers need only a 275-amp battery. Most cars with a
4-cylinder engine require a low amp battery. Reduce your price
and sell it with no guarantee--and, don’t think that you can’t
sell these. Just tell the customer that you can guarantee this
battery will start his car – but for how long you cannot
determine. Many times you will have a customer wanting a
battery just good enough to start his car since he plans on
selling it right away. Also, it could improve after several days of
charging and recharging on the car etc. Our golf cart
customers tell us the driving distance improves with each
charging; it is the conditioner working. A battery that tests a
little low will improve with successive charging if you have our
additive in it. The additive will help to dissolve more acid
crystals that have built up on the battery plates.
HOW TO CLEAN BATTERIES:
First, look into each cell and top off with additional water if
needed. Then, put the caps back on tight. Using a wood rasp,
run it across the top of each post. This will remove any
roughness and give a nice clean flat look. Then, using a good
battery post cleaner (one with metal blades), run it down and
turn around each post several times to even out each post,
leaving a clean look. Don’t make the mistake of using a cheap
wire battery post cleaner. Now, you are ready to wash each
battery. The best and most economical cleaner, and the only
one you will need are kerosene. Also, purchase a good, round
wheel brush with a wooden or plastic handle and stiff 2 inch
long nylon bristles. Pour a few inches of kerosene into a 1
gallon plastic bucket with a wide-open top. Dip the scrub brush
into the kerosene and briskly scrub the top and sides of the
battery. Next, take a garden hose and attach an adjustable
nozzle. Turn on the water and slowly open the nozzle until you
get a hard fast spray. Go over and around the top and sides of
the battery. Tilt the battery and spray under it. The use of a
square, waist high wash pit using a small wooden turn table to
place a single dirty battery upon makes the wash operation
easy and fast. You can make your own wash pit and turntable.
WIPE DRY PROCEDURE:
Next, your washed batteries will need to be dried off. First, get
some newspapers. Lay these (several sheets thick) on a table
and then set each washed battery on top of these papers.
Next, get some hand wash towels. Remove the battery lids and
wash them off in your wash pit. Take a couple of sheets of
paper towels and wipe off the top of the battery. The fluid on
the top of the battery under the lids will be greasy and you
don’t want this in your dry cloth towel. Throw away this paper
towel, take your dry cloth and proceed to wipe dry each
battery side and around the terminal tops. Shake out the
battery lids, wipe dry and re-apply to battery. The battery will
look like new. Lastly, wash out all cloth towels immediately with
water and hang them on a line to dry.
NUMBERING BATTERIES:
Your washed and dried batteries are now ready to number.
Sets of small metal number dies are needed for this purpose.
These are not expensive and can usually be purchased from
any hardware store. You can start your numbering system
beginning with #1 or #100 or whatever you choose. We stamp
numbers on our batteries in two places. Place one on top of
the positive post and the other into the top of the plastic case
near the positive post and next to the edge of the battery case.
Don’t hammer in hard, because you could crack the plastic.
The reason for numbering each battery is so you can issue
each customer an individual guarantee with his/her battery.
The battery number should be written on each sales invoice
and guarantee slip. Stamping the date of purchase on top of
each battery is not necessary. Also, the customer should bring
to you his/her sales invoice and guarantee slip so that you can
immediately see when it was purchased.
LABELING PROCEDURE:
A company label with the month of purchase punched out and
the year should be applied to the top of each battery. Put the
labels on before the sale is made because this makes your
reconditioned batteries look more professional. Place your label
over any guarantee that might already be on the battery. This
prevents the customer from seeing the original age of the
battery and also from confusing him/her as to your guarantee.
FINAL TEST:
After labeling, again hook up your load tester and see what
cold crank amps your reconditioned battery is now producing.
Write this in small letters on your company label for quick
reference. You have now classified this battery and are ready
to place it on your “selling table.” No further testing will be
necessary.
PAGE 2
